Scene setting
The trade and movement of post–consumer textiles (PCT) – textiles that have been purchased, used and then discarded for reuse or disposal – is well established in the UK.
As recently as 20 years ago, PCT businesses, such as collectors and sorters, could rely on textile quality and established mature business partnerships to pass on used textiles for reuse, remanufacture, recycling and repair, both in country and abroad. However, in recent years, these businesses have been hit with increased costs, limited labour availability, and a rapidly-evolving high-risk market landscape. This landscape is characterised by growing concerns regarding the industry's environmental impact at the point of disposal, driven by increased consumption and rising levels of textiles being discarded. While the effects of fast and cheap fashion, particularly the shift to synthetic, lower-cost materials and lower-quality manufacture, tailored for short-lived micro-trends, have further exacerbated these challenges.
The items these actors deal with are typically a mix of reusable and non-reusable textiles, with different stakeholders in the value chain having differing views on whether to treat items as resource or waste depending on their business needs and activities. As a result, the flow of PCT towards the end of its usable life can take multiple routes. This complexity has created a situation where the opportunities and challenges for extending the life of these items are not universally understood.
Bringing transparency to the sector
To increase industry understanding and transparency of the flow of post-consumer textiles in the UK and foster opportunities for collaboration to maximise the value of PCT, WRAP has conducted a Post-Consumer Textiles Landscape Review.
The key outputs from our review include:
- Post-consumer textiles definitions
Definitions on textiles resources (including post-industrial and pre-consumer) by lifecycle stage, key onward markets, and recycling processes.
- Post-consumer textiles landscape flows
Mapping of the landscape and flows of UK post-consumer textiles, including actors, actions, onward market routes, alongside consideration towards regulatory factors, textiles waste and transparency.
The review was developed through an iterative process with members of WRAP’s Textiles 2030 voluntary initiative and other industry stakeholders and provides foundational evidence for the initiative. The outputs also assist in the progress of the Textiles 2030 Roadmap and the Closing the Loop on Materials pathway, in turn supporting the transition to a circular textiles economy.
Post-consumer textiles definitions
Various terms have been coined by different parts of the textile sector to describe resources, used products, and waste within the textiles lifecycle. Terminology can inadvertently imply use or value, which can lead to barriers or opportunities in how textiles are considered or handled.
WRAP, with the support of key businesses and organisation in the industry, has developed the below document which sets out standard definitions for these commonly used terms to provide much-needed consistency and clarity for the industry and to help reframe textiles as a valuable resource no matter what stage it is in its lifecycle.
Post-consumer textiles landscape flows
To help the industry visualise the flow of post-consumer textiles in the UK, including where it arises and how it transfers between stakeholders, what actions are taken and by whom, as well as end markets, WRAP has created the Post-Consumer Textiles Landscape Flow Chart.
The interactive flow chart can be accessed via the button below and can be navigated using the diagram guide and accompanying legend in the top left-hand corner of the page. To zoom in and out of the diagram, toggle on the zoom control in the bottom right-hand corner of the screen.